Jill and Bow's Travels

Scotland ... Highlands, Sheep, Castles, and Wonderful People

As the Scots would say, Scotland was "smashing". The countryside, millions of sheep and castles were all so stunning, but it was the people we met that will make Scotland unforgettable for both of us.

Before we left on our big trip, my Aunt Marg and Uncle Jim (the newlyweds)gave us names and numbers of friends and family to contact while in Scotland and told us not to forget because they were expecting us. Jim is originally from Glasgow and his stories over the past years have inspired our need to see Scotland. Jim has been with my Aunt Marg for seven years now and is a true gem - witty, interesting, and lots of fun - a perfect match for Aunt Marg. Amy and I have always said that if we didn´t have Bow and Todd we´d be heading straight to Scotland to find ourselves a young Jimmy.

We landed in Glasgow on Sunday Sept 14th and Jim´s cousin John picked us up at the train station. We had phoned John and Janet from Dublin and they had asked us over for breakfast when we arrived. They have six children and 11 grandchildren and they have to be the most social and hip grandparents I know. They travel constantly and have visitors on a regular basis. When we arrived at their house for breakfast they had another Canadian couple staying with them for over a week. We ended up staying for breakfast, afternoon tea, dinner and even stayed over. It was such a fun and social day because some of their kids, grandkids, and other aunts and uncles also stopped in. They were all so enthusiastic about our travel plans and gave us great tips on places to see while in Scotland.

On Monday morning John helped us to get a great deal on a rental car. It was a compact (some might say lunch box) neon green DaeWoo Matiz. We were beyond excited to see the tape deck for our mixed tapes (yes we´re still old school with tapes).

As per usual, we didn´t have a real route planned. We decided to head up towards the west coast and go to some of the islands we had heard so much about. The countryside was so different from Ireland. The land was very lush and filled with millions of sheep. There weren´t too many houses or villages, and certainly no yellow or pink houses like we had seen in Ireland. We had heard that the reason the countryside was so barren was because people had been forced out of their homes and villages were burned since owners could make more money from sheep than renting land and homes to people, which was quite sad.

The highlight of our first day was a castle B&B on the way to Oban. We stumbled over it and decided to live like honeymooners for one night and the price was reasonable to allow it. What a treat!! The room was gorgeous with ornate furnishings. We had the most amazing breakie in the morning and then the owner took us up the tower to overlook the loch and another local castle.

We carried on to Oban to catch the ferry over to the Isle of Mull, which was recommended by a co-worker of Bow´s - great spot! We explored this island on one-track roads. It was filled with misty hills, more castles, lochs, highland cattle, and once again millions of sheep. The sheep loved the roads, in fact they preferred them over grazing in the fields - we would literally have to drive around them like an obstacle course on the roads.

After going to another island called Iona to see a 14th century Abby and Nunnery we headed to a harbour town called Tobbermory for the night. We stayed at a B&B on the harbour and ate at the local fish n chips stand before heading to see ¨Fine Friday¨, a band from Edinburgh who performed traditional Scotish and Irish music with their own flare.

On Wednesday morning before we headed out of Tobbermory we added another lesson to our long list - "remember not to lock the keys in the car". Yes we had locked the keys in the car. Early in the trip we decided to make a list of lessons instead of getting frustrated when things don´t always go the way we want them to go ... and rather make a joke of it instead of get frustrated. I think lesson # 1 was "don´t forget sunglasses at internet cafe" (second set of glasses already purchased!!). We´ve actually had many laughs over the lessons we´ve made on this trip. I think we´re at 25 already and still laughing ... let´s see how we do at 100.

Although we were frustrated about the keys, we were very entertained with the ability of the local garage crew to get the keys out. They slipped a long wire through the door and played around until he got the keys out of the ignition and slowly brought them out of the small crack in the door. And only 35 Pounds (about $100) for that five minute show.

From Mull we headed to the Isle of Skye for a day and then over to Inverness in the Highlands the next day. We were driving past all of the hoopla surrounding the Loch Ness Monster just before Inverness and decided to turn back to see what all the hoopla (aka touristy joints) were all about since we´ve heard about this monster since childhood. We were actually quite impressed with the exhibition and learned quite a bit. It´s been going on since AD 565 but mainly since 1933 when people started devoting their lives to searching out the monster. We were shocked to find out about how much time and money people have put into finding out whether the monster even exists or if it´s only a figment of people´s imaginations. For example, people would spend 10 consective summers sitting at lookouts at different points of the loch just watching the water to see if anything would come up. Craziness!!

On Friday, we drove from Inverness to St Andrew´s, the home of golf, before heading to Edinburgh. St Andrew´s was a beautiful town and offered more than just golf - it housed an incredible cathedral and university. But watching Bow on the 18th tee was just so entertaining - a kid in a candy store. And yes golfing fanatics we managed to get his picture on the famous foot bridge on the 18th tee, which he was beyond excited about. He was trying to tell me the significance of that bridge and could hardly get the words out quick enough.

We didn´t follow our new rule # 20 and arrived in Edinburgh after 9pm when it was dark and we were without a place to stay. That brought rule # 21 - "try to remember to listen to our rules". It was difficult to look at the map because there was just so much to see in the city that I could hardly concentrate. When we did get our bearings we ended up driving around the main city square (princess street) about six times before figuring out where to go - the city was obviously built before cars were ever a thought. We stayed in the tiniest of rooms in a hostal - a bunk bed and that´s about it for $100 ... Scotland is expensive!!! We did end up having a great night out - yummy pasta at a lively Italian restaurant and we walked all over the downtown core. The architecture blew us away.

On Saturday, we met up with John and Janet´s son Gerald. He and his wife Elizabeth and two kids Ewan and Raurie live right downtown. They were so wonderful to us - very kind and generous. Gerry took us on a walking tour of the city, which was such a treat to learn more about the history from a local. They made us delicious pesto and let us stay over. Gerry and Elizabeth have both travelled all over the world and told us many great places to check out along our travels. Ruarie is 11 and is a goalkeeper on his high school football (soccer) team and told us all about the sport.

Sunday morning we headed back to Glasgow for our last days in Scotland. Gerry had recommended the Museum of Religion to us and so we decided to check it out. It was one of the most fascinating museums we have ever been to since so much of the world´s history is based on all of these different religions. It did a wonderful job at bringing everything together and incorporating it into all modern day events and celebrations.

We wandered around the city before heading over to a young couple´s place - Maria Montoya and Shaun Doherty. Maria was a friend of my Aunt Margaret´s from Toronto. She had come over to Scotland with a friend when she was 21 and met Shaun. Within a year they were married back in Canada but they have lived in Glasgow for the past 10 years - we could tell right away they were a perfect match. Shaun teaches and Maria is currently working part time as a social worker and home an extra day a week with their adorable son, Rory, who is 18 months. They were a wonderful family and 100% pure fun - we had lots of laughs. She made us a very yummy dinner and we chatted up a storm all night. They too were very hospitable and had us stay the night.

Monday was our last day in Scotland and John and Janet picked us up around noon from Maria and Shaun´s. They took us for traditional tea and scones at the Pollok house and then to the Burrell Collection. The collection was once the private collection of a successful shipping agent in Glasgow. He donated his entire collection of medieval european art, oriental ceramics, tapestries and paintings to the city of Glasgow for everyone to enjoy. We walked around the city before going back to relax at their house and eat another amazing dinner cooked by Janet. We surprised Jim and Marg that night when they arrived to find us there - it was great to see them and hear about their travels in Ireland. Once again they had us stay the night, which was such a treat.

We had one last Scottish breakfast before heading off to catch our plane to Barcelona. Scotland was such a beautiful country, but the true highlight was definitely the kind and generous people we met.

Now we´re off to walk the Camino de Santiago ... more stories to come soon...

Jill

Well, I have to echo my wifes comments about the people we met in Scotland... WOW, they were so generous and hospitable but so much fun to be around!! We talked and talked for hours and seemed like we knew these people forever! so thanks Marg and Jim for leading us to them (John And Janet, and the rest of the family,as well as Tom And Kathleen, Gerald, Elisabeth and family, and Maria, Shaun and Rory). So Marg and Jim, if any of these friends or family come to visit with you in T-dot, let us know and maybe Jilly and I could head down to see them again!! We can´t thank them enough for all they did for us!!

Just to add info to Jill´s posting... The Castle B&B was truly amazing, the atmospere, the view, the rooms and even the food! If anyone is travelling to Scotland, specifically to Oban, definitely ask us for the address!

The Isle of Mull, thanks Kristen for the tip!, was really beautiful! WE saw most of the island in our little neon green lunch bucket. And yes, I locked the keys in the car at Tobermory, so much for the great rate!!

Then we moved on to the isle of skye, but not without incident... on the way to Mallaig in a rain storm, we just found out that the last ferry was leaving so we were excited and on our way... til the next crest of a hill when Jilly mentioned " Bow, I think that car is in our lane?" which it was... so I hit the brakes and went to pull over to the left shoulder (that´s on my side of the road in Scotland for those of you that forgot) but the woman driving right at us turned that way as well... so with my Jacques Villeneuve-like reflexes I pulled the car back to the right and then laid on the horn... Anyways, suffice it to say we survived but the ticker was pumping a little faster on the rest of the drive to Mallaig. We caught the Ferry and it was as beautiful as Mull!

Inverness was a very cute little city but our highlight was as Jill already mentioned was St. Andrews! What a beautiful area, not to mention golf course.... and yes, I got my pic on the brdge leading up to the 18th green! Paul and Todd, we could have hacked that course up well!

Then we moved on to Edinburgh and what an amazing city! Very unique to Scotland I found so if ever in the UK, definitely make a trip to Edinburgh! And thanks again Gerald for the great personal tour!

Glasgow is a nice city as well and finally we saw quite a bit of it the day or two before we left... the museum of religion is a must if you have any interest in world religions!

Then, as we were waiting for the plane to Barcelona we wrote many post cards, so hopefully most of you will be receiving them soon. Those who have not, well, be patient, we´re on holiday! hahaa and loving it!

Next leg of the trip... when we embark on our trek through Northern Spain as pilgrims, or as they say in Spain, "Peregrinos"!! Cán´t wait!!

Just hope the new walking boots can handle it!!

Bow.

Posted by jill at September 24, 2003 11:05 PM